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Tomatillos a Versatile Option for Cooking

September 3, 2008

Tomatillos a Versatile Option for Cooking

By Denise Miller
For the Albuquerque Journal

I don't usually eat plain tomatillos. However, whenever I cook with them, I always eat one and rediscover its tart, tangy flavor.

About the size of a large cherry tomato, these little green cousins to the red tomato are a staple in Mexican cooking. Their juicy insides are white, and they grow to maturity inside a papery husk.

Like all produce, the best part of finding these little gems at growers' markets is how fresh they are. During the winter when I purchase them at the grocery store, I always have to discard a handful, but in my recent purchase from the Santa Fe Farmers' Market, every tomatillo was perfect.

When choosing tomatillos, look for small ones, as they tend to be sweeter than those that are large, golfball size. The condition of the husk is a good indication of the fruit's freshness. The husk should be light brown and fresh looking, not shriveled and dried. They also should be firm and free of defects.

While their appearance is somewhat spotty at growers' markets, they usually can be found until the hard frost. Shoppers, be sure to ask a farmer to consider growing them next year.

Tomatillos can be stored on the counter or in the refrigerator. If they won't be used immediately, leave the husks wrapped around the fruit like little paper bags. They will keep for several weeks to a month. They also may be frozen whole or sliced.

Tomatillos are easy to cook with because they don't need to peeled or seeded. Their texture is firm when raw, but they soften when cooked.

Remove the husk before using, and rinse the tomatillos because they are covered with a sticky substance.

While salsa verde is a common and delicious way to savor tomatillos, my first thought is to serve them in pescado tortillas. This is one of my favorite ways to eat fish.

My next thought is I will need cilantro, peppers, onions, garlic and, of course, fish.

Like all things olfactory, which many experts say our brains remember better than anything else, food can trigger memories in a flash. For me, pescado tortillas come with a wonderful memory born 20 years ago in Santa Barbara, Calif., when after a day of mountain biking, a friend prepared a real Ceasar salad and pescado tortillas.

It doesn't get much better than good friends, food and wine, and I have tried to re-create those tortillas ever since.

As with many recipes, don't feel limited by the ingredients listed. Substitution is welcome. For example, mild banana peppers can replace jalapeños.

Any firm, fleshy white fish will work. I usually buy what is on sale, and the last time I prepared this with catfish.

The taste of clean, light fish is perfectly complemented by fresh, tangy tomatillos, and a glass of crisp pinot grigio goes nicely with seafood and citrus flavors.

Those chefs feeding three or four hungry people may want to increase quantities slightly.

Another thing I love about this dish is that leftovers can be reheated and enjoyed for several days. I know most people don't consider fish the best meal for leftovers. But since I am the sole fish eater in my house, I always appreciate fish that holds.

Remember: When preparing fresh tomatillos, be sure to try one on its own and enjoy its unique unadorned taste.

PESCADO TORTILLAS A LA SANTA BARBARA

About 4 servings

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced

1 red onion, finely chopped

12 to 14 fresh tomatillos, chopped

3 to 4 jalapeños, finely chopped

1 bell pepper, chopped ¾ to 1 pound white fish (catfish, halibut, trout, etc.)

lemon or lime, a few squeezes

Salt, pepper to taste

6 to 8 tortillas

This is an easy one-pan meal.

Add the olive oil first and move around the pan to coat. I prefer to sauté in a regular, heavy-bottomed pan.

Add all chopped ingredients, then the fish, whole filets, into the pan. Squeeze some lemon or lime over everything and cover. Cook on medium for about 10-12 minutes.

Uncover the pan. While everything continues to cook, use a spatula to break apart the fish into bite-size pieces. Let simmer a few more minutes, add salt and pepper to taste. Heat tortillas and spoon pescado mixture onto tortillas, using a slotted spoon or spatula to allow extra juice to stay in pan. Roll up tortillas and enjoy!

TOMATILLO SALSA VERDE RECIPE

Makes 3 cups

1½ pounds tomatillos

½ cup chopped white onion

½ cup cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

¼ teaspoon sugar

2 jalapeño peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped

Salt to taste

Remove papery husks from tomatillos and rinse well. Cut in half and place cut side down on a foil-lined baking sheet. Place under a broiler for 5-7 minutes to lightly blacken the skin. Place tomatillos, lime juice, onions, cilantro, jalapeño peppers and sugar in a food processor (or blender) and pulse until all ingredients are finely chopped and mixed. Salt to taste. Cool in refrigerator.

Serve with chips or as a salsa accompaniment.

-- Adapted from "Simply Recipes"