PreviousSquash Shows Fall at its Best
October 11, 2006
Squash Shows Fall at its Best
Farmers' Markets DENISE MILLER For the Journal
The markets are full of comfort foods this week -- beans, chard, chile, eggplant, onions, potatoes, peppers, spinach, turnips and winter squash.
Wondering about the difference between winter squash and pumpkins? More culinary than botanical, winter squash has a finer texture and milder flavor, while pumpkins have a somewhat coarse, stronger flavor and are generally orange.
Despite its name, winter squash is a warm weather crop. It got its name because you can store it well into and through the winter.
Winter squash offers many cooking possibilities. To find it at the growers' markets, just look for vivid displays of an odd-shaped produce. Choose firm, well-shaped squash that is heavy for its size and has a hard, tough skin. Slight variations in skin color do not affect flavor, but a tender rind indicates immaturity and is a sign of poor quality.
Thick, hard rind and tough seeds makes most squash difficult to peel, so it's easier to cook the unpeeled squash, and then scoop out the cooked flesh. Wash the exterior of the squash just before using, and scoop out the seeds before or after cooking.
All varieties of winter squash are great for puréeing, roasting and baking. Once squash is cooked and mashed, it can be used in soups, main dishes, vegetable side dishes, even breads, muffins, custards and pies.
Try boiling or mashing winter squash just as you would potatoes. Or, add peeled squash cubes to your favorite soups, stews, beans, gratins and vegetable ragouts. You can also dress any cooked winter squash with butter and herbs, a cream sauce, cheese sauce, maple syrup and nuts, marinara sauce or stewed fruit.
Here's a guide to squash varieties found in New Mexico:
ACORN: This acorn-shaped squash is one of my favorite baking squashes. Slice it in half and fill with butter. Acorn squash has sweet, slightly fibrous flesh. Most varieties have a dark green skin, but there are now golden and multicolored varieties.
BANANA: Its shape is reminiscent of a banana (albeit much bigger), and its skin varies from golden yellow to light orange, with a sweet, finely textured bright orange flesh. They can grow up to 2 feet long and be 6 inches in diameter.
BUTTERNUT: This vaseshaped squash tastes like sweet potatoes. It has a pale, creamy skin with deep orange nutty-flavored flesh. The deeper the orange, the sweeter it tastes.
BUTTERCUP: This one is part of the Turban family, and it's quite popular. It has a sweet and creamy orange flesh -- much sweeter than other winter squash. It can replace sweet potatoes in most recipes.
CARNIVAL: The yellow flesh of this squash tastes like sweet potatoes or butternut squash. They are creamcolored with orange spots or pale green with dark green spots in vertical stripes.
DELICATA: For taste, this squash stands out (therefore it's featured in this week's recipe). It has a cream-colored skin with forest green stripes. The creamy pulp inside tastes like sweet potatoes. For this one, the skin is edible.
HUBBARD: With an extra hard skin, this one will keep for up to six months at 50 to 55 degrees. They come in either big or enormous, are irregularly shaped and have warted skin. They are ideal for pies. Before storing for a long period, remove stems completely. This will prevent rot.
KABOCHA: Sometimes this is called Japanese pumpkin, but it's in the buttercup family. It has a rich, sweet flavor and can be dry and flaky when you cook it.
SPAGHETTI: When spaghetti squash is cooked, the flesh separates in strands like spaghetti. It's shaped like a watermelon. It has a goldenyellow, oval rind and a mild, nutlike flavor. Look for the squash that is the most yellow; avoid nearly white.
SWEET DUMPLING: It looks like a pumpkin with the top smashed down. Because it averages 7 ounces, it's great for stuffing and baking as an individual serving. You may also roast it and present it whole.
TURBAN: Lots of different colors and bizarre shapes make this one popular as an ornamental. It's often used for centerpieces; sometimes people slice off the top, hollow it out and fill it with soup. It has a turbanlike swirl on its blossom end. It tastes like hazelnut.
