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Ol' Dr. Seuss was on to Something Tasty

March 4, 2009

Ol' Dr. Seuss was on to Something Tasty

Farmers' Markets
DENISE MILLER
For the Journal


"I will eat them here and there.

Say! I will eat them anywhere!

I do so like green eggs and ham!

Thank you! Thank you, Sam-I-am!"

-- "Green Eggs and Ham"

These enduring, endearing words from Dr. Seuss jumped right out of the frying pan last week while I was making greens, eggs, but sorry, no ham.

Two days ago, March 2, marked the birthday anniversary of this literary genius who helped teach millions of kids to read, and I think even his Lorax and Star-Bellied Sneetches would agree that Sam's friend might have liked green eggs much sooner if Sam had bought the ingredients fresh from a local growers' market.

Yes, this is the time of year when hens are laying again after their short winter break. People who arrive at market early enough also can purchase a bunch or two of delicious, fresh greens.

What a combination they make. Cook them together to create a simple, flavorful meal. Braising the greens and the cracking the eggs right on top created a new taste sensation my whole family, kids included, loved.

My inspiration was a jaunt to the Santa Fe winter farmers' market. Like at other area winter growers' markets, the choices of fresh food are more streamlined this time of year, but that isn't always a bad thing.

Let the surroundings inspire you. While the ingredients are unpredictable, their quality isn't. Take broccoli greens I stumbled upon. These tender leaves and shoots that sprout from regular broccoli were harvested by a brother and sister farming duo from Estancia.

Head to the market
At the markets this month look for cooking greens, micro-greens, lettuces, hothouse tomatoes, mushrooms, carrots, and other root veggies, honey, bread, fresh and dried herbs, jams and jellies, and of course, eggs.

Do you ever wonder if it's worth spending a little bit more on fresh eggs at market?

According to research from Mother Earth News in 2007, eggs from hens that are allowed to peck on pasture rather than those from chickens raised in cages have a much higher nutritional value including: one-third less cholesterol, one-quarter less saturated fat, two-thirds more vitamin A, twice the omega-3 fatty acids, three times more vitamin E, and seven times more beta carotene.

Chickens that live in cramped conditions with three or four chickens per small cage usually don't receive much, if any, fresh air, exercise or grass. They are often fed antibiotics to prevent disease and food made with animal byproducts instead of vegetarian diets chickens are meant to eat.

Chickens are what they eat, and so are the eggs. That's why cage-free chickens that eat grass, weeds and bugs, as well as get exercise and sunshine, make the best eggs.

When a consumer buys eggs at farmers' markets, chances are excellent that the hens weren't penned up 24 hours a day. Many smallscale growers raise chickens not only for their eggs, but also to control insects and fertilize their land.

But don't just take my word. The great thing about buying food at a growers' market is shoppers can ask the growers questions about their operations. Ask if their hens are caged, if they get outside and scratch the ground and what they eat. Learn firsthand how the food you will eat is grown and raised.

Organic eggs come from hens that haven't been given hormones or antibiotics and are fed only certified organic feed. They are free-roaming and must have access to fresh air. Like other organic foods, they must be verified by third-party inspectors.

Ask the grower. Even if the eggs aren't organic, they may be raised under nearly identical conditions.

Crack some facts
Now for some fresh egg facts: The white strand sometimes seen inside the egg is called a chalaza, and fresh eggs often have a more noticeable one. It doesn't need to be removed.

If an egg white is a bit cloudy, this is assurance of a fresh egg. The cloudiness is from carbon dioxide found in the young egg that didn't have time to escape from the shell.

And, everyone's top egg worry: the blood spot. This, too, indicates a fresh egg, and though rare, it usually can occur from a rupture of a blood vessel on the surface of yolk follicle. It can be removed for aesthetics, but it doesn't make the egg inedible.

Color of eggs isn't related to quality, flavor or nutritional value. The breed of hen determines the color of the eggshell. But if like Sam and his friend you like your eggs green, just throw in a handful of nutritious and delicious cooking greens.

GREENS, EGGS, NO HAM

Serves 4

1 tablespoon butter

1-2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 large handful (about 1½ cups) cooking greens, roughly chopped -- chard, broccoli greens or spinach

1/8-1/4 pound of oyster mushrooms, chopped

4 eggs

2 (or more) slices fresh, hearty bread

Chop all ingredients so they are ready for the frying pan.

Over medium heat, melt the butter and add the garlic and oyster mushrooms. After a minute or two, add the greens and stir until they are lightly braised.

Next, crack the eggs right in the pan alongside or on top of the greens. As they start to cook, cover the pan to retain heat and cook until the eggs reach desired hardness. If you like your eggs a bit harder, use a spatula to trim out each egg and attached greens, then flip it over in the pan for another minute or so. Serve on toasted bread and enjoy!

APPROX. PER SERVING: 205 calories; 67 calories from fat; 7 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 194 mg cholesterol; 20 g carbohydrate; 10 g protein; 9 g fiber; 142 mg sodium.