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Julia Made Simple for Eggplant Lovers
October 7, 2009
Julia Made Simple for Eggplant Lovers
Farmers' Markets
DENISE MILLER
For the Albuquerque Journal
Today was my Julia day. My plan was to try five varieties of locally grown eggplant, but how to prepare them was the conundrum.
I'm smack dab in the middle of Julie Powell's book "Julie & Julia" (recently turned into a movie with Meryl Streep), who writes about her year re-creating each of Julia Child's recipes from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking."
While I've relied many times on Child's 1989 version of "The Way to Cook," I was surprised to see my mother's 1966 edition of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" on my shelf -- much like Powell's discovery of the book on her mother's bookshelf.
Still, I didn't exactly follow one of Child's eggplant recipes. The recipes sounded delicious, but complicated.
While I'm sure her Eggplant Stuffed with Mushrooms would be to die for, I usually prefer simple cooking for two reasons: the first is time (I'm usually somewhere between rushed and super-rushed); the other is that ultra-fresh vegetables don't need much embellishment.
My plan was to taste test the eggplant varieties and create a delicious, albeit quick and easy, dish.
More than just purple
At most stores you will find the large, dark purple eggplant variety generally known as Black Beauties. At growers' market, the selection increases infinitely.
From just one vendor I purchased these varieties: Japanese (long, slender and purple), Tango (long, slender and white), Nadia (medium size, roundish and dark purple) and Neon (a smallish, light-purple globe).
My first decision was whether to salt the eggplants. I've always sweated them because it is supposed to remove bitterness. But the fresher the eggplant, the less bitter it will be.
To salt an eggplant, once it is sliced or cut in half (depending on its shape), salt the flesh and turn it upside down on a paper towel. After a half hour, squeeze out any excess water.
I tried each variety both salted and unsalted. I couldn't taste a difference. So when my eggplant is market fresh, I won't bother with salt.
To compare the varieties, I sautéed and roasted each separately in olive oil. There was more similarity than difference among the varieties. But the two most different were the white Tango with its creamy, soft texture and the Japanese, which is mild with a hint of sweetness.
If someone you know isn't crazy about eggplant, the Japanese variety is a great way to get them started on this fruit.
A satisfying sauté
Sautéing is how I most often prepare eggplant because whatever late summer/early fall vegetables (squash, green chile, onions or tomatoes) are in the pan, eggplant is always a good addition.
Sautéing also happens to be fast.
Eggplant absorbs just about as much oil as you give it, so using an extra virgin olive oil is a good choice. When sautéing, I tend to slice eggplant almost paper thin so it gets a bit crispy, but this is a matter of personal taste.
Once they are translucent, they are ready to eat.
Roasting is another great way to bring out the savory flavor of vegetables like eggplant. Slice the vegetables uniformly so they take about the same time to cook. If you slice on the thin side, watch them so they don't burn.
I cut the slices about ½-inch thick, drizzled them with olive oil, added herbs -- I had only dried oregano -- and put them in a 400-degree oven until they were brown (about 20 minutes).
In the following recipe, I cut the eggplant into bitesize pieces. This reduced the cooking time by half.
I also accidentally used sherry instead of sherry vinegar. No matter. The tang of the feta complemented the eggplant and roasted tomatoes.
The small amount of the dish that I managed to save was great as a leftover straight out of the fridge.
As you slice your eggplant, think of Child's advice in the introduction to "The Way to Cook":
"Pour out a glass of wine, and while you're gossiping about the day and (preparing the food) ... you're all but ready for dinner and everyone is refreshed and happy."
HERB-ROASTED EGGPLANT WITH TOMATOES AND FETA
Serves 4-6
1¾ pounds eggplant, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 large plum tomatoes (or whatever you have) cored, quartered lengthwise
3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons fresh oregano, chopped ½ cup crumbled feta cheese salt and pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 450 F. Place eggplant and tomatoes on rimmed baking sheet; toss with oil and vinegar. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons oregano, salt and pepper. Roast until eggplant is tender and golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 40 minutes. Transfer eggplant and tomatoes to platter. Sprinkle with feta and 2 teaspoons oregano, and serve.
Growing season in New Mexico: Late summer through fall
Nutritional value: In eggplant skin, researchers have found nasunin, an antioxidant and free radical scavenger that protects cell membranes from damage. Nasunin protects the lipids (fats) in brain cell membranes. Vitamins and minerals, such as B1, B6, folate, copper, manganese, potassium, and about 10 percent of the daily value of fiber are found in one cup of the skin and flesh.
