Buyers Snap Up Sweet and Tender Asparagus
May 12, 2010
Buyers Snap Up Sweet and Tender Asparagus
Farmers' Markets
DENISE MILLER
For the Albuquerque Journal
If you're a fan of fresh, sweet asparagus, head to the local markets now. The bunches that growers bring are so delicious, even they can't resist them.
"I eat it raw from the garden. I steam it with salt and lemon juice. I grill it with olive oil, and I make asparagus soup," says grower Denise Wheeler of Albuquerque Sun Dried Farm who devotes almost a quarter acre to asparagus, yet she sometimes only brings about 12 bunches to market.
Now through about mid-June, many growers will bring this spring delicacy to markets, but it goes fast.
Like most fruits and vegetables sold at area growers' markets, asparagus is picked within 24 hours of going to market, and is usually harvested when it is about 6 to 8 inches tall.
"At stores you usually stay away from fat stalks and look for skinny ones. At market, the fattest are the sweetest," Wheeler says.
Sometimes they grow so fast, Wheeler says, that if she misses a few stalks, the next time she goes out they may be a foot tall. Those are destined for her soup pot and never make it to market.
But the asparagus that goes to market is tender. Wheeler often tells customers to carefully handle the bunches.
She brings two varieties -- one purple and one green (she can't remember their names). But like purple varieties of string beans, those stalks lose their beautiful purple color and turn green when cooked.
Watch the heat
Asparagus plants generally do well in New Mexico's sandy soil. Although they require sun, they don't like too much heat. So Wheeler intersperses her plants with fruit trees to keep the plants out of the direct light.
Wheeler suggests people who want to grow asparagus start with roots rather than seeds. Asparagus plants take about three years before they can be harvested, but the roots, which would be about a year old, will help move the process along.
Wheeler advises waiting until late spring (and after the final freeze) to plant them. Carefully choose your location because this perennial will come back from the same root system annually for 15 years or longer.
Wheeler says the delicate fern-like plants are beautiful.
Sense of community
As May progresses Wheeler will bring various spring crops, such as mixed greens, baby turnips, peas, leeks (mid-May) and baby beets (late May).
She says she enjoys delighting people at the Los Ranchos Market with foods that have a "wow" factor.
She also likes "being in a place where people come not only to get great food, but to be in community," says Wheeler, who has been selling there for 18 years.
And this woman manages telehealth program development at the University of New Mexico Center for Telehealth; runs the nonprofit Community Renovation Empowering Women, which repairs buildings for agencies that aid women and children; and teaches home-repair classes at UNM Continuing Education.
As for eating asparagus, try it with a mustard vinaigrette or citrus dressing. Each adds a bit of flair.
ASPARAGUS WITH VINAIGRETTE, PECANS
Serves 4
Ingredients:
¾ cup pecans
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon mustard
1/8 teaspoon sea salt
Ground pepper
2 pounds asparagus
Directions:
Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
Place pecans on a parchment-lined cookie sheet and toast until fragrant and lightly browned. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
To make the vinaigrette, whisk together the olive oil, mustard and salt and pepper and set aside.
To prepare the asparagus, bend each piece near the tough end until it snaps off. Discard ends and steam asparagus until it turns bright green (about 3 minutes). Remove from heat and place on a serving dish. Drizzle with vinaigrette, top with toasted pecans and serve.
ASPARAGUS WITH CITRUS DRESSING
Serves 2
Ingredients:
1 pound asparagus
5 cups water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, divided
3 tablespoons orange juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil or Canola oil
Directions:
1. Snap off asparagus ends; discard.
2. Place 5 cups water and 1 teaspoon of the salt in large deep skillet; bring to a boil. Add asparagus spears. Boil, uncovered, 4 to 5 minutes for thin spears, or up to 8 to 10 minutes for thick spears, or until crisp-tender. Drain well. Transfer asparagus to serving plate.
3. Combine orange juice, lemon juice, sugar, mustard, remaining salt and pepper in jar with tight fitting lid; shake well. Add oil; shake well again. Pour as much dressing as desired over warm asparagus. Serve at room temperature.
Tip: This salad can also be served chilled. Do not top spears with dressing until just prior to serving.
Featured grower: Denise Wheeler, Albuquerque Sun Dried Farm
Featured crop: Asparagus
Where to find her: Los Ranchos Growers' Market
When to find it: May until mid-June
Nutritional value: Asparagus is an excellent source of vitamin A, and contains significant amounts of vitamin C, riboflavin, phosphorus and calcium. One cup of cooked fresh asparagus contains only 30 calories.

Previous